It costs how much per skein?! How to make yarn substitutions for your new project for a happier wallet (and/or spouse)
Turns out, the designer’s suggested yarn and hook actually matters if you’re looking to crochet a wearable item that actually fits. Don’t ask me how I know… it’s still lurking in the UFO pile of shame.
Maybe it’s the ADHD or that I have a limited budget, but I don’t often grab the same yarn that the designer used for their projects. Maybe one day I’ll be able to afford the hand dyed yarn made from angel tears and pampered goats who eat better than I do. Until then, if I’m not picking up a project made from the cheap and cheerful stuff, I need to get creative and use what I have before my yarn stash takes over my living room more than it already does.
When you’re taking a moderately hinged, or in my case, a completely unhinged, deviation from your pattern, it’s good to do a gauge swatch to make sure that you will have the same stitch count. Your finished project won’t look like the designer’s photo. Depending on if you’re using the same or different recommended fiber, your project will have a different drape, feel, and overall look. Your gauge swatch will give you a good idea of what your project will look like, as well as help you dial in your hook size to nail your stitches and/or rows per inch.
Choosing the right substitution
Yarn weight
If you’re wanting a project that is roughly the same size outlined in your pattern, the weight of your yarn is the most important thing to consider. Weight, in this case, refers to the relative thickness of the yarn. The Craft Yarn Council lists eight weights:
0: Lace (sometimes also called Thread)
1: Super Fine (often called Fingering, Sock, or Baby)
2: Fine (often called Sport or Baby)
3: Light (often called DK or Light Worsted)
4: Medium (often called Worsted, Afghan, or Aran)
5: Bulky (often called Chunky, Craft, or Rug)
6: Super Bulky (often called Super Chunky or Roving)
7: Jumbo (often called Arm Knitting Yarn)
This will get you into the ballpark of where you need to be, although there is a bit of wiggle room between the weights. “Baby” can be slightly thick and labeled as a fine (#2) yarn, or it can be very thin and light like a super fine (#1) yarn. If you choose a yarn of a different weight than the pattern suggests, it changes the final size and feel. For example, using a thicker yarn will result in a larger, denser fabric compared to the original design, even if you follow the pattern exactly. I’ve also seen that some yarns listed as a #4 medium weight yarn are nearly identical to a yarn with a Fine (#2) weight. This is where swatching will save you from frogging hours of work.
If you’re digging through the random balls of yarn that have been in your stash since skinny jeans were ubiquitous and the label has long since wandered off, you can get an idea of your yarn’s weight by counting the wraps per inch. Simply grab a ruler and wrap the yarn around for an inch or so snugly but not tightly and count the number of loops. This is more of a rough estimate as to your yarn’s weight, but it’s enough to get an idea as to whether or not it will be appropriate for your project.
Approximate WPI for each weight:
| Wraps per inch | Yarn weight |
| 30-40 | 0- Lace |
| 14-30 | 1- Super Fine |
| 12-18 | 2- Fine |
| 11-15 | 3- Light |
| 9-12 | 4- Medium |
| 6-9 | 5- Bulky |
| 5-6 | 6- Super Bulky |
| 1-4 | 7- Jumbo |
If you want a more precise substitution for your yarn, you can find suggestions on yarnsub.com. Simply enter in what the pattern calls for and it will give you similar yarns in a variety of price points and fibers to find your perfect match.
Once you know the weight of the yarn you need to use for your project, you can then start to look at the fiber of the yarn.
Yarn fibers
There is a big caveat here: the type of fiber you use will make a drastic difference in how the fabric looks and feels. Sometimes this is necessary, especially if you’re allergic to a type of fiber, hate the way a specific fiber feels against your skin, do not wish to use animal products, or just want to treat yourself. Matching the designer’s choice of fiber will keep your finished project looking and behaving more like how the pattern was envisioned.
The three big categories here are animal, plant, and synthetic. Within each of those you will find a variety of fibers to suit your needs and budget.
Animal
Wool is the most common animal fiber for yarn, and it’s thick, warm, and easy to find, even at craft stores. You can find it in a ton of colors, weights, quality, and price.
Cashmere is yarn made from goats, and is soft and luxurious. It’s ideal for lightweight but warm garments like sweaters and cardigans.
Mohair is also made from goats, but due to its fine, fuzzy nature, it’s not great to crochet with by itself and benefits from another, less fussy yarn carried alongside it in a project.
Alpaca is warm and delightfully silky. It’s one of my favorites, even though I live in Texas, where it’s not appropriate for 10 ½ out of 12 months. I usually opt for a fine or super fine weight and an open, lacy pattern.
Silk is expensive but has unparalleled sheen and softness. You’ll usually find this in a blend, where its luxurious sheen and drape can enhance other fibers. It’s a great fiber as it will keep you both warm and cool, depending on the weather and stitch.
Plant
Cotton is the most common plant-based yarn you can find. Unfortunately, the cotton yarn I find in my local craft and big box stores is, frankly, awful. It’s thick, scratchy, and good for nothing but dishcloths, but don’t let that turn you off of cotton! I’m a huge fan of mercerized cotton, which is softer, shinier, and smoother than unmercerized cotton.
Linen is a fantastic yarn for summer projects! It’s lightweight, well-known for its moisture-wicking properties, and doesn’t stretch out like other fibers do. It can, however, be stiff and is notorious for splitting.
Bamboo is relatively new, and despite it being more expensive than cotton, is a fantastic, soft yarn that is great for a variety of projects. You’ll sometimes see this listed as viscose or rayon, which are synthetic techniques for turning cellulose into fiber.
Synthetic
Acrylic is by far the most common synthetic yarn you can find. While it has a bad rap from some yarn snobs, it’s the perfect choice for people new to any fiber art due to its availability and affordability. While there are some low-quality, crunchy acrylic yarns out there (IYKYK), there are also some delightfully soft and high quality brands that are a dream to work with.
Nylon is seldom used on its own, but is often found in blends to help make yarns stronger and more durable.
Rayon/viscose is a soft, silky yarn that is made from regenerated cellulose. It’s also a common blend to help increase softness and luster in yarns.
One of the things I love about crochet is that I can make a garment that’s exactly the right shape and fiber for me, regardless of the pattern’s suggestion. If you love the way a particular pattern looks, you can follow the pattern down to the yarn and hooks. If you embrace the notion of “happy accidents”, use the pattern as a guide instead of a bible. If you want a similar garment, opt for a yarn that has a similar fiber content and size. If you hate the fiber, change it out for something you like more, or that’s more affordable to you!
Even though your finished garment won’t look exactly like the designer’s, it will be a garment as unique as you. There is nothing like wearing a handmade garment out and about so when someone comments on your clothes, you can casually say, “Oh, this? I made it myself.”
Amy Writes Things 